Sunday, April 13, 2025

Arizona Girls Trip - Days 9 & 10 (home)

 It's our last full day on the road and we have a lot of ground to cover.  We are checked out of the hotel, car is loaded and we're getting gas next door when I remember that I left my nightlight in the bathroom.  Sherri is still putting gas in her car and we make a quick drive back to the hotel to get the light.  Problem is, we didn't tell her and left her all alone in a pretty sketchy area -- ugh.



Meeting up once again, let's get going.  Watch out the windows ladies - the views are amazing.



It's been a back road morning, but we've reached our destination:  The Ice Cave and Bandera Volcano.


This was a place I had read about before the trip and thought could be a fun stop.  As we drive up, a sign informs us, "The Bandera Volcano rose up in fury some 10,000 years ago.  The crater is approximately 1400 feet across and 800 feet deep.  Bandera is one of the finest examples of an erupted volcano in the country, and one of the most accessible.  An ancient lava trail leads you to a collapsed lava tube.  Inside the Ice Cave, the temperature never rises above 31 degrees.  Here, the natural layers of perpetual ice, glisten blue-green in the reflected rays of sunlight."  Doesn't that sound like a fun place to check out.


Checking in takes a bit of time as we are given information on the place and some guidance.  We also find out that the government has been trying to get this place as a national park for quite some time and they are not interested in giving it up.  Interesting stuff.  The building is also the old trading post and was built in the 1930s along with a saloon and dance hall.  At the time, the Zuni Mountain Railroad was operating and the logging industry was in full swing.  They kept their beer cold using ice from the Ice Cave.  In 1946, it began operations as a tourist attraction.  The trading post still deals in jewelry, pottery, rugs, and other art of local Indian Tribes.  It also has ancient artifacts on display. 


Most of these were found in the lava, and date back 800 to 1200 years.



Out the door and follow the signs.  We are following the Volcano Trail first.  Along the way, we see tree holes that were formed as the lava from Bandera Volcano began to flow into the surrounding area.  Geologists and Biologists tell us that the flora and fauna of the time was essentially the same as they are today.  This tree hole was formed as the lava flowed around a tree that existed here (Douglas Fir or Ponderosa Pine) and solidified quickly around it.  The tree itself burned up, leaving the hole as you see it today.


We are ready to trek!!!


This type of lava formation is called a spatter cone.  Spatter cones are formed when minor vents form in the molten lava.  A surge of hot air rushes through the lava forming surface tubes and minor vents.  When the air breaks through the surface, lava will splash out forming the type of cone seen here.


Some one is in a hurry - the rest of us?  Not so much.


Apparently, this is a good area to spot wildlife, but we are unsuccessful.  



Gwen - at the top of the hill wondering what is taking us so long.  Yep, the irony is not lost on us.


This is volcano land.  Off into the distance are a number of other volcanoes that make up the El Malpais region.  There are 29 volcanoes in this area.  If you look close enough, you should be able to see some in the next three pictures.




Here you see a cross section of Bandera volcano.  This volcano is a cinder cone.  The volcano began as the earth started to swell.  Eventually a crack broke open and high pressure lava began spraying out.  The molten rock hardened in mid air and fell back down to the ground as cinders.  As the eruption continued, the cinder cone got larger and larger.  


Cool tree.  No story.


As lava ages, the various elements within the rock leach out.  Elements present in most lava include:  oxygen, silicon, iron, aluminum, calcium, magnesium, sodium, sulfur, potassium, titanium and other trace elements.  Here you see calcium (white), sodium and sulfur (yellow), and iron (red) leaching out onto the rock.


Below is the beginning of the lava tube system.  That is the large canyon that snakes out from the crater.  This section of lava flow illustrates how violent this eruption must have been.  Early sheepherders called this area "devils playground." The lava is very sharp, jagged, and makes good shelter for rattlesnakes.



Another cool tree.


Bandera is the largest volcano in the region.  Ten thousand years ago there were two eruptions:  first the cinder cone developed, then a massive lava flow broke out this side.  The molten lava reaches temperatures above 2,000 degrees.  Bandera's lava flow is nearly 23 miles long.  At the end of the eruption, the lava suddenly fell back down the main vent making the bottom of the cone deeper than the outside lava flow.  This crater is nearly 1400 feet wide at the top and roughly 800 deep.  The elevation at lookout point (where I am) is 8,036 feet.  The elevation at the rim is 8,367 feet.  Over time, erosion and gravity take their toll on the crater and it is slowing filling up as cinders and rocks fall down into  it.  This makes for a very fragile environment.


The lava field seen here is made up mostly of 'A'a lava.  'A'a lava is composed of jagged, broken lava produced when the surface of the flow cools and hardens while underlaying lava is still in motion.  This region is called El Malpais, which is Spanish for "the bad lands."  Pueblo Indian legend has it that the lava flow was the blood of the Kachine KauBat.  We've all decided that 'A'a is the sound one makes when they are barefoot on this.  Makes perfect sense to us.



Another tree - okay, a short story.  The trees growing in lava find it hard to establish deep roots.  The results are that the trees grow to be twisted and gnarled. 


Two additional types of lava are pahoehoe and is swirled, ropy looking.  The other is Clinker and looks like plates stacked one upon another.


The circular stacks of lava seen here are ancient Pueblo ruins.  If you look carefully you can see stacks of lava rocks forming a wall in front of the small cave.  The cave is actually a surface tube.  The insulating properties of the lava made for ideal shelter.  Most of the artifacts that I showed earlier were found in this area during the 1940s and 1950s.



This is a section of collapsed lava tube.  A lava tube is formed when the molten lava pours out of a volcano.  The surface hardens, while below, the lava continues to flow.  The porous lava acts as an excellent insulator and keeps the lava hot beneath the surface.  This creates a pipeline of lava known as a lava tube.  This is the Bandera lava tube.  Its overall length is 17.5 miles and is considered to the the longest in North America.  Most of the lava tube has collapsed, but there are caver here an there such as the one we are about to go into.  On the other side of the tube, you will see two logs.  Those made up one of the original ladders used to climb down into this cave.


Ice Cave time and I'm hot and ready.  We had thought it would be cool today and are all dressed rather wrong.





Wow - the temperature drop is amazing and divine.  This is a spot where pictures do not do justice.  Just saying.  As rain water and snow melt seep into this cave, the ice floor thickens.  The floor of the ice is approximately 20 feet thick.  The deepest ice is the oldest and dates back 3400 years.  The green tint is caused by an Artic algae.  The back wall was formed in the early days when ancient Indians and early settlers mined the ice.  In 1946, ice removal was stopped.  At that time the ice wall was nearly 12 feet high.  Since then, the ice floor has risen relative to the back wall.  The rate of ice accumulation varies with annual rainfall.  The cause of original formation of ice 3400 years ago is not know for sure, but was most likely due to annual rainfall.  However, perpetuation of the ice is due to a combination of existing conditions make a natural ice box:  20 feet of ice in a well insulated cave shaped to trap frigid air.  The Pueblos called this Winter Lake.




The greens and oranges on the lava lichen and moss.  The moss here is an Alpine Moss and is very rare this far south.  The scaly looking green and orange growth is lichen.



We all stay until our bodies cool down.  It's heavenly.


Back up at the trading post - there is a picture of how the cave used to look - crazy.


On the road again - just can't wait to get on the road again.  Going a little crazy here.  We make it to Albuquerque and I'm craving Pho, so Vietnamese it is for lunch.  Viet's Pho and I have to say - it was sublime.


Still driving and Hello Texas.  One would think we were almost home, but, nay.  Texas is a pretty dang big state, for those of you who haven't been here.


Sure sign of West Texas - old and new windmills mixing it up.


We are at my last "stop" for the day.


Do you know where we are?


Yep, Cadillac Ranch.  In all the years Mister and I have driven past this point, we've never stopped.  Now I can mark it off my list.  The primary element is a row of ten Cadillac sedans, representing the evolution of tailfins from 1949 to 1963 and is situated on the flat, open land of the Texas Panhandle, near the famous Route 66. Visitors are invited to paint and re-paint the cars, making the piece a constantly changing canvas and a testament to free-spirited creativity and artistic expression. 




Some almost empty cans are even found so that we can contribute to the painting.





Well, that's it for today --- we have a lovely AirBNB in Amarillo.





Basic pub food and a beer are all I want after driving solid for two days.  Can we make that happen?  Cindy says Blue Sky and we are set to go.


I settle for fries with my beer.  Not overly hungry after my large bowl of Pho today.  They're great, though and I'm a happy camper.


As we depart, the moon is rising.


By the time we are back at the house - night all.


13th - Well, dang.  This is where we part with Sherri as she makes her way back to San Antonio.  It's been grand spending time with her and she will be missed.


Just one car now -- heading east for the day.


We must do an obligatory Buc-ee's stop. 



Gas and snacks are procured and we have a ton of driving still ahead of us.  


First rest stop of the whole trip is the Hardeman County Safety Rest Stop and I have to admit - this is a dang nice stop.  It is filled with tons of information and really nice restrooms.



I finish first and just take a moment of fresh air and thought collecting.  It's nice to to be driving.


Wichita Falls comes up and we are planning on stopping at Lucy Park, but I can see from the interstate that the falls are not flowing.  No idea why, but not stopping to find out.


Continuing on to Weatherford, we stop for lunch.  It's a crazy roundabout way of getting there, but we finally find the place.  McAlister's Deli for the win.  I had planned on a stop at the Floating Walkway, but everyone is just ready to be home.  


So, that's what we do.  We're all back safe and sound.  It was a great trip and I cannot wait until we plan the next one.  Love you all so very much.  Stay creative, y'all.

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